FTScratchBuild-Advanced
FT MIGHTY MINI CORSAIR SPECS
- Weight without battery: 5.5 oz (156 g)
- Center of Gravity: 1 inch (25 mm) from leading edge of wing
- Control Surface Throws: 12 ˚ deflection (elevator/aileron/rudder) Expo 30%
- Wingspan: 24 inches (609 mm)
- Recommended Motor: 2200 kv 2204 size motor
- Recommended Prop: 6 x 4.5 prop
- Recommended ESC: 12 amp minimum
- Recommended battery: 800 mAH 2s or 3s
- Recommended Servos: (4) 5 gram servos
FT MIGHTY MINI CORSAIR PLANS
STORE LINKS
New to the R/C hobby?
Here's some resources to help get you up to speed!
Beginner Series: WATCH HERE!
Electronics Setup: WATCH HERE!
First Flight Quick Tips: WATCH HERE!
Got glue?? Get Some Here!
Thank you!
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so it could be a typo too?
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Thank you for all the awesome plans! A scratch builders dream come true :)
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I am gone for the next week, but when I get home I will be getting on the files for the Corsair.
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Just wanted to point one little thing out: The drawings are missing the templates for both the firewall and the control horns. No biggie since they can be taken from the Mustang design for instance, but still... ;-)
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Desperately anxiously looking thru the forums for someone to post up larger plans! Same size as the Spitty and Mustang..?
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That is an outrage.
Indicating that the plane does not fly by the wings is only propeller engine
It is the problem of small aircraft
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I have one question, do you remove the paper from the foam board? It is unclear in the videos, and I haven't seen anyone do that in the videos, or heard it mentioned.
This would reduce weight, but sacrifice some strength.
Keep up the great work!
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I had built a slow fly Corsair last October, but it didn't survive the 5th crash, so I had built a second one with design improvements to create a better center of gravity. But unfortunately the winter had set in and thus ended my flying. I'm now waiting for the perfect day when I have the available time to finally fly my new warbird.
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thanks and i also subscribed to your channel
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I have tried to build with a heavy duty foam board and I had to move the wing quite much backward to get cg right, to the extent that rudder and elevator control basically disappeared.
E.g. Paint could cause this also.
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i build ur mustang design and it's very nice plane , but ur mini plans pdf r not working and when i put them in coreldraw for laser cut export it said "file corrupted" !!
i don't know why :(
could you help me please ?
thank you again
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this project is simply fantastic (flite test), I always wanted to get into the hobby , but with great difficulty ... Thank you supply , today started my Corsair ! And I have to thank ! Thank you so much I always wanted to fly !
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c:
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Hi. The 2200 kV 2204 size motor can support 11.1 v 850 mah?
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What is the best battery to purchase for this plane?
https://store.flitetest.com/g5-50cmax-2s-850mah-4-2v-max-lipo/#product-description
https://store.flitetest.com/gpr-800mah-3s-20c-lipo-battery/#product-reviews
https://store.flitetest.com/hyperion-450mah-3s-50c-lipo-battery/
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I always start my builds by modifying the DTFB. I remove the paper and relaminate it with red rosin paper and a slightly watery mix of regular white glue (PVA with a little food coloring). Put it on the paper (the rosin paper , let it dry, put it on the foam and let it dry then use a cheap iron to iron it on. Makes everything MUCH stronger but doesn't add a ton of weight.
I make the fuselage and empenage as per the plans. The cowl just didnt look right as designed (in my opinion) it ends up with a conical or truncated look which the corsair doesn't have so I modify the cowl to form a cylinder and laminate it with the rosin paper twice, radiusing the front edge by pinching and bending. (Adds a little more weight upfront and looks the part).
The biggest difference is in the wing.
I mount a 12 gram metal gear servo cut into the top of the wing just above and in front of the spar in the center section. During the wing building I used heavy coffee stirs and very fine gauge music wire to make my own flexible pushrods so everything is concealed (No unsightly servo sticking out the tops of the wings. The heavier servo just slightly ahead of the CG, the esc mounted between the cowl and the bottom of the slot for the power pod, and an 850 mah 3 cell placed into the space of the power pod gives me spot on balance that I can adjust from 1in to 1.5in as recommended, not to mention a sweet looking plane that is more durable and FAST (I'm using the Emax rs2208s, 6x5.5 HQ prop, and YEP 30 amp esc). I never bothered to weigh the completed plane but it's never been an issue. Not the easiest modification but well worth the outcome for such a great plan to start with.
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I replaced all the turtle deck paper with plastic from elsencia or smart water bottles, the bottom of the 20 oz bottle is the perfect size for the cowling, presenting the natural curve of the cowling and the natural curve of the bottles fits the bottom and rear deck perfectly. it glues on to the flite test foam board using supper glue. Just trace the deck parts on to the bottle and cut it out. looks more finished and is easy to paint.
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l did exact the same project but when l run the bldc motor after a few seconds it stops.l tried the same with a power suply and it worked like a charm!
l used 3s lipo battery (2200 mAh), 2200KV bldc (6T model) motor, 30A ESC.
Someone who can help or give a suggestion please ??
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